Museums, Hammams, and a hop to Asia
Sabas gets up early to go to the Archeological museum. I am spared from joining him. For some reason museums and galleries were never my thing. I’m more into animated objects I guess. A lazy morning in bed for me.
Sabas returns just in time for us to go for a (late) breakfast. It turns out the museum was closed as it’s a national holiday, or something. Sabas is disappointed, but vows to go tomorrow morning before the flight.
We go back to the Jolly Man’s place for a meal, only it must be his day off and we are met by his understudy, who doesn’t speak a word of English. He tries his best with hand gestures. I think the finger ‘horns’ mean beef. The food is as delicious as before, though the entertainment program is somewhat lacking.
If museums are not my thing than hammams certainly are, and I’m determined not to leave without visiting one. We opt for one of the oldest and most beautiful ones, not far from the shore. It is women only today but we can come back later in the evening and best to book a treatment in advance online, says the efficient caretaker, who tries to sell us a spa package. One look at the prices and I’m not so sure any more. We’ll think about it.
Shall we go to the Modern Museum? I think it’s over there says Sabas. I oblige, 'but I’m sure it’s that way' I say and walk in the opposite direction. I ask a passer by which way. Oops. Sorry Sabas.
When we finally find it it transpires the Modern Museum is closed for refurbishment. Oh well. We wander along the shore and decide to catch river-boat going to the Asian side. We can simply use our travel card, but we don’t have enough credit. We manage to charge it and board just in time and off we go. There is something about boat travel that is so exhilarating. The water, the wind, the sense of being transported to a new horizon.
Welcome to Asia! Now this is clearly less touristy and more as I imagined Istanbul to be. Not as clean or attractive as Taxim, but certainly vibrant. We come across a little food shop and Sabas is in dried fruit heaven. I suggest we pop in on the way back and Sabas settles for a few fragrant soaps from a neighbouring store. We roam the market streets and end up in a little street with antique shops where we sit in a somewhat characterless cafe for a well deserved break. A (far too) sugary mango juice, mint tea and chocolate cake with raspberries. And most important of all, they have wifi.
We go back to the dried fruit shop for a little supply of fruit and nut mix (note to self - to avoid avalanche pick from the top not the bottom of the pile).
I suggest trying the local hammam, looks very authentic and reasonably priced. But Sabas doesn’t seem keen and we return to ‘the west’.
On Istikal street at the boyband corner a new group are singing their hearts out. We return to the flat for an ice-cream and biscuit break and a short siesta.
It’s our last evening and am minded to go to a hammam. Sabas eventually decides to join and we’re off to the very unassuming local one we came across the other day. On the way a quirky little shop catches our eyes, a combination of vintage/gallery/jewllery store. Nostalgic 20s music in the background, and the jewellery maker - enthused by Sabas’s interest - explains the origins of the elaborate antique reproductions he made.
The hammam is quite small and run down, but has a certain authentic charm to it. A few small rooms of varying temperatures, stone benches, and taps all round pouring warm water into stone basins. The larger room has a marble slab in the middle. Not many people. We booked the all-inclusive treatment with a massage, a scrub and foam. We are instructed by our respective ‘pashas’ to lie on the marble slab. Ooh it’s quite hot and I’m a bit squeamish. ‘This is Turkish massage not English’ says my charming pasha as he pours cold water all over me. Then it’s scrubbing time, I’ve been warned it can be quite vigorous, but perhaps he took pity on me and it’s actually rather pleasant. We now go upstairs, tiny room, somewhat uncomfortable massage bed, thin walls, lousy music, and glaring light. But the massage itself is pretty good I must admit. Before we leave the room the pasha explains that if I leave the tip in the collection box it is shared between all the staff. Just in case I didn’t get the hint he clarifies I should give it to him in person when we leave the place. We go back down to be covered in lathery foam and rubbed some more. I’m in heaven. I’m going to sleep so well tonight.
Only I don’t. Not a mosquito in sight, no street musicians, and yet it’s 3am and for some reason I’m still tossing and turning. I stop pretending I’m nearly asleep and switch the iPad on.
DAY 6
Sabas is up by crack of dawn, it’s our last day and he is not leaving without a visit to the archeological museum. Just as well I’m exempt. I manage to get a bit of sleep and start the day at a civilised pace.
Sabas returns with a ‘post museum visit’ glow about him. It was worth all the effort. He’s happy, and so am I.
We thank our friendly host and say good bye, not before Sabas gives her some suggestions for improvement (and rightly so, what’s the point of having tea and coffee if there is no sugar?). All in all a very nice flat indeed and we’re both very happy to have found it.
Off to the Metro.
Quickly, the train is about to leave.
We manage to board as the doors close behind us. Phew.
Ummm... hang on... it’s the wrong direction.
We do manage to get to the airport in good time. One of the advantages of traveling with a punctual person. The security check is almost by the train station’s exit, how very efficient. Another security check greets us at the entrance to the airport. Passport check, again, by the check-in desk. We make our way to the gate, it’s a long (loooooong) way away. And, yep, another security check. We use our remaining liras to get an overpriced snack before going, you guessed it, through another security check before finally boarding the plane.
Farewell Istanbul, great to have made your acquaintance, and hope to see you again soon
