I’ve been invited by a good friend to visit him in Bucharest, and by another to Budapest and Berlin. What better excuse for a little European Tour!
Wednesday 23 Feb.
I’ve never been to Romania’s capital so when my good friend invited me over I jumped at the opportunity. Going on a holiday is exciting. And somewhat stressful. I obviously end up packing into the night, and true to Murphy’s law I get two castings to film for while away. I must travel more often.
Thursday 24th.
I find myself sitting next to the only person on the plane who does not wear a mask. Must be my karma. I decide against heroic scenes and focus on my tablet. Meanwhile a nervous lady across the aisle can’t cope with the turbulence and I end up holding her hand for a good part of the flight. I decend the aircraft steps at Bucharest in the knowledge I’ve done my good deed of the day. A few suspenseful moments while my covid pass is being scrutinised by the stern looking immigration officer and I’m let through.
At the exit awaits my host, who happens to be the Israeli ambassador to Romania, with a big smile. It’s been a while. There are some perks being the ambassador’s guest. A handsome bodyguard opens the door to the comfy limo, heated seats warm my behind during the short journey, and at home awaits a delicious spread. I could so get used to this.
Friday 25th.
An equally yummy breakfast greets us in the morning. Sadly also the news that the war in Ukraine has well and truly started. Original plans for a leisurely weekend are scrapped and we’re heading for the border crossing in Siret.
The chauffer must be a frustrated racing driver, thankfully a good one. An eight hour ride is completed in five as we zoom past breathtaking vistas, blue lights and sirens thrown in for good measure. I gulp as the driver makes the cross sign having yet again narrowly missed a head on collision.
The exhausted embassy staff are already near the border crossing in readiness and working round the clock to help any Israelis who might need assistance. A convoy of 100 orphan Jewish children from Odessa is headed to the border and frantic efforts are made to facilitate their safe passage. True ‘Arvut Hadadit’ in action (a Hebrew term for ‘mutual guarantee/support’). I watch in awe.
There’s apparently a 20km long gridlock at the Ukrainian side. The men are sent back to fight and women with prams and kids walk for hours in the freezing temperatures to reach the border. Local volunteers of all walks of life await those who make it through with food and water, warm blankets, and a sense of helplessness that they can’t do more for those across the border.
We stay at a magical local monastery - far from a gloomy place of restriction and suppression I imagined a monastery to be, the monks are full of joy and we are welcomed with a gregarious meal, not to mention their homemade ‘medicine’ as they call it - a very strong liqueur. No wonder they are so jolly. They too send a delegation with food and supplies to the border the following day.
Saturday 26th.
We go for a morning stroll at the nearby village, followed by a guided tour of the monastery’s workshops with the delightful Father Maxim, before heading back to the border.
It turns out the the 100 orphans convoy is in fact a whole 500 strong orthodox community. They did not make it to the border and ended up staying in a town in the mountains of south Ukraine while trying to figure out what to do.
Sunday 27th.
After two nights near the border we return to Bucharest, by air this time. We enjoy a delicious dinner at Mace - a superb restaurant of the Israeli chef Yosef Haddad - and a very pleasant walk around the city centre (aka as Little Paris for some reason). We finish the tour with some delicious cakes from a recommended patisserie. It all seems a bit surreal having just returned from the Ukrainian border.
Thank you David for an unforgettable visit, and thank you for the important and inspiring work that you do!
Next stop - Budapest.
