Arrival
I’ve never been, I always wanted to go, but I never had/created the opportunity. So when the opportunity arisen to meet my dear friend (and mythological ex) Sabas there I jumped at the opportunity. It’s his 50th birthday so what better excuse (if any was needed) for spending a few days in good company at the exotic vibrant city of Istanbul - the meeting point between Asia and Europe, East and West, the historic centre of the once great Ottoman Empire, with its famous bazars and mosques, baklava a plenty, and of course world renowned Turkish hamams (which, between us, is all the excuse one needs really).
I booked us a lovely holiday flat in the central and beautiful (I was told) area of Taxim. Balcony suite option included. Birthday or no birthday?
In recent days my excitement sadly became slightly mired with mild anxiety given the current political tensions and increasingly inflammatory rethorics between Turkey and Israel in the wake of the Gaza clashes. I’m not quite sure how safe it is to be an Israeli over there nowadays. Just as well I’m equipped with my French passport.
With only three hours sleep and cutting it very fine I rush to the airport. Letting my lovely en-suite room (come studio) on Airbnb certainly has its advantages, but boy does it take time to prepare. Locking all my stuff away, scrubbing and ironing and making the bed and cleaning and tidying and moving stuff around and the laundry and dishes and fridge and watering the plants and leaving the keys... and then realising I haven’t yet packed...
It’s been a while since I’ve been on a non low-cost flight and Turkish Airlines does not disappoint. There was no need for the Pret sandwiches and Netflix downloads I’ve armed myself with. I’m sure the sandwiches will become useful on arrival. Oh look, they have a first class section. Is that an entertainment system? Is that food really free? May I have another drink please?
Seems like a healthy mix of people on board. Though they do all look rather serious for some reason. Even that man who send furtive glances at me. Maybe because his family sits right behind him. A pleasant posh lady sitting near me, and I’m sure I’ve spotted a gay couple back there. Cute.
Already from the air Istanbul looks quite impressive. I’m excited. On the way to passport control I am stopped. I knew it. I must look suspicious, I should have shaved. ‘Boarding card please’ I’m asked by the stern guard. Oh, wait a minute, this is the way to connection flights, not to passport control... that’s to the left... Right.
In my excitement I left the Pret sandwiches onboard. Damn. I could use a nice sandi right now. Oh look, Simit Sarayi! Just like in London.
The baristas or however they are called over here seem to have more interesting things to do than attend to customers, and I’m becoming more grumpy and impatient as the years go by. I’ll go spend my money elsewhere.
Now trying to figure out which ticket to get on the Metro is a challenge in itself. Not many seem to be able or willing to speak English, certainly not the Metro staff on attendance. I need small change. The little kiosk nearby obliges, and I get my little sandwich as well. A little smile from the shop keeper perhaps? Nope.
A friendly passer by helps me buy a ticket. I did say I was hoping to get a travel card, but never mind. The bored policeman outside the final stop isn’t particularly helpful when I ask for directions, his colleague who’s English is a bit better can’t be bothered either. Oh well.
I finally make it to the flat which is situated in a charming little side street. My friendly host waves from the window. Finally a jolly face. It was a challenge finding a tastefully decorated place for a reasonable price, but I did land this very nice self contained flat hotel, called Pera Neuf, with a comfy retro feel. That’s a keeper.
Taxim is a really nice ‘shabby chiq’ bohemian neighbourhood and I’m going on a night stroll. Some hearty food, soaking the atmosphere of the neighbourhood, and an overpriced tea at the posh cafe on the street corner. The waiter looks rather miserable.
It’s late and I’m exhausted. That was a good day and I’m ready for bed. Tomorrow is an early start as I promised to meet Sabas at the airport. I wouldn't want him lost in the streets of Istanbul for four days. Energetic musicians appear out of nowhere on the street below hoping for someone to pay them to go away. Just as I nod off a cheeky mosquito pays a visit.
Arrhhh
